Presented by Margie Sydney, Certified Master Gardener
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SUCCESSFUL SEED STARTING
Why start your plants from seeds?
- Greater variety available than from typical nursery.
- Much more economical.
- Plants grown from seed tend to be healthier, less stressed
- You have more control over the timing of planting.
What do seeds need to germinate & grow?
- Moisture, Heat
- Friable, moisture retaining seed starting medium.
- Seed to soil contact
- Light- for some seeds
Anatomy of a seed packet
- Species and variety, Conventional or Organic Any special characteristics, including disease resistance, pole vs. bush variety, annual vs perennial, etc. Quantity & row feet a seed packet will sow. Size of mature plant (indeterminate varieties continue to grow all season). Days to maturity; Packed for the current year
- Growing instructions
- Direct sow, transplant or either
- Days to germination- Temperature dependent
- Time to sow- Usually in terms of weeks before or after the last expected frost date- Some sources say 4/21 in our area, but more likely 4/16 (think Tax Day)
- Sowing depth- generally 1 ½ – 2 times the seed size. Some seeds require light to germinate, so do not need to be covered.
- Plant spacing after thinning.
- Materials needed
- Containers- cell packs, yogurt cups with drilled bottoms, 2- 3” individual pots, peat, paper, or fiber pots, soil blocks. Don’t use any larger container than necessary. Growing medium- Commercial soilless seed starting mix- usually equal parts of peat moss, perlite, vermiculite. No nutrients in the soil, so seedlings will need to be fertilized after their 2nd set of true leaves emerge, or then transplanted to a larger pot with potting soil. Growing medium- Commercial seed starting mix, made with the above, plus compost & micronutrients. DIY Growing medium- blend equal parts compost, peat moss or coconut coir, perlite & granulated seed starting fertilizer. Tub to mix the potting soil. Trays to hold containers. Water Labels & markers Plastic domes, baggies, or plastic wrap- until germination.
- SEEDS! Full-spectrum LED light- optional; Heat Mat – optional
- Sowing your seeds indoors
- Thoroughly moisten your potting soil Fill containers. Tamp lightly to minimize air pockets. Sow 1-2 seeds to the recommended depth & cover with soil or vermiculite Place cell packs on heat mat & cover with plastic dome to keep in moisture. Once germinated, provide the seedlings with as much light as possible. If using grow lights position the light 6-12” from the seedlings to keep them from getting leggy. Bottom water (into the tray) as needed to keep the soil moist. Thin seedlings early if more than one seed germinates to prevent crowding. Pinch, don’t pull. Transplant seedlings into the next size pot as they outgrow the cell pots before the roots start crowding the sides of the pots to encourage healthy growth. If seedlings are kept in a particular pot for 3 or more weeks, you can provide weak fertilizer for nutrition.
- Hardening off plants gradually before transplanting to the garden
- Direct Sowing to Garden
- Soil temperature considerations depending on plant Soil texture & structure- loose, friable soil with plenty of nutrient rich organic matter, including compost. Avoid over-tilling the soil. Consider a plant’s space requirements when sowing seeds & thin accordingly. Sow in rows or “square foot” format
- Trellis climbing plants, including peas, cucumbers, pole beans, winter squash, etc.
- Miscellaneous Tips
- Keep a planting journal
- Save left over seeds in a cool, dry location. I keep mine in Tupperware with desiccant packets in the refrigerator.
- Resources
- Rise & Shine; Seed Starting with Ease: by Petra Page- Mann, Fruition Seeds https://www.fruitionseeds.com/
- UCONN Home & Garden Education Center https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/
- Square-Foot Gardening: by Mel Bartholomew; Rodale Press; 1981
- The New Seed-Starting Handbook: by Nancy Bubel, Rodale Press; 1988
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